Ahiron Part 3: Frames of History.

And figments of my remembrance.

I have always been a silent admirer of history embedded within the walls of the forts and monuments. Its not that the grandeur lures me towards them, but the idea of being witness of the times when I wasn't around as myself. Childhood paced my mind such. (but I am no demi-manjulika from Bhool Bhulaiya)

Epoch blends beautifully with the hues of a human imagination. Murshidabad dresses with an attire that startles the best of the best. Start from the stories of cruel rulers, like the one called Katra Mosque. It is the oldest in Murshidabad, built by Nawab Murshid Qila Khan. The Nawab was originally a hindu born, but was kidnapped by muslim dacoits of the time, in childhood. Later on, he escaped their grasp, but the hindu family disregarded his identity. Desolate and alone, he was adopted by a noble muslim land lord. Later on, Qila Khan became the Nawab of Murshidabad and adjacent parts of Malda and Dinajpur. Because of his episode with the Hindus, Qila khan became an atrocious name for the Hindu household, rampaging the religion all over his regime. Later on, he realized his mistake and erected a temple of Lord Shiva, alongside the Mosque. His grave is under the staircase of the Mosques' entrance, witnessing his command till date. At his death bed, he wished that people would walk over his tomb, before going to the Mosque to pray, as a sign of repent of his actions against the Hindus.

Back side of Katra Mosque, Murshidabad. 

Somnath Paul, March 2011.

Architecture bears the notion of Mughal Extravagance and elegance in the utilization of geometry. The Pillars and the Central Dome (now dilapidated) along with the 54 minor domes signs off with the traditional of Mughal architecture as well as touches the presence of Bengal (using clay sand). The use of clay sand makes the rooms and the smaller channels cooler than an AC, running at 14'C! Ancient planning... well they always win!

   The history of Katra Mosque was really intriguing, but what captured my admiration, was the planning to illuminate the Mosque, especially at night. Must have been a grand sight in those less polluted and no neon- lamp days. In the next picture, we would find channeled rectangles made on the walls. They once used to house Belgian Glass Mirrors (one of the finest of those times). These mirrors were paced vertically opposite to the fences, which has small pockets capable to house oil filled lamps. At night, the light from the lamps used to create a magical (Indrapuri) ambiance at the place. My imagination though took me to those places.... awesome!

    There is more to these places than these pictures and the blog articles.

    The next place of attraction was Hajar Duari (1000 doors/windows). A British architecture, erected as a court house. In fact, at Murshidabad, Bengal was the first ever kingdom that the British could snatch in India, defeating Shiraj Ud Dwala in the Battle of Plassey, 1757 A.D. In bengali its called পলাশীর যুদ্ধ | Lord Clive entered India with England. Hajar Duari rests as the reminescence of those history, bringing up 200 years of Indian Dependence. There is a museum inside, but no photography is allowed in there. The surrounding is vibrant with the gardens, but I loved the Watch Tower the most at this place.

   But, some really touching and angry history awaited us at Devi Singh's Mansion. Later, in Part 4, the concluding tour diary.